One of the most salient features, and correspondingly big attraction, of the Boundary Waters is its isolation, its offer to let yourself get away from it all - your paddling companions excepted of course. Most campsites, as far as I could tell, were not visible from other campsites, and the disconnectedness of the lakes on the route we took reinforced the sense of isolation. We saw a few folks making/breaking camp as we made our way, and some folks on the water from our campsite on Winchell Lake, but never actually had a boat-to-boat conversation with anyone else.
Almost paradoxical, then, was the relatively high traffic we encountered during portages. We would paddle across an empty lake to the takeout, and in most cases if there wasn't already at least one party there preparing to put in, we would run in to others as we made our own portage. Depending on the time it took to get from one end of the portage to the other, and the number and size of other parties present, you could run into a surprising number of people. Until I got used to it, it was almost jarring to suddenly encounter people after seeing no one, and this was reinforced by the narrow linear nature of portages. No one at a portage can avoid coming within standard US personal space of anyone, or indeed almost everyone, else.
What helped me adjust the most was the fact that everyone we met was really really nice and, more so, generous with advice about the portage, the status of campsites on various lakes etc. Especially useful was the weather information provided by a solo fisherman with a satellite phone who we encountered over the first couple of days. We in turn tried to be as helpful as we could. Even something as simple as a positive affirmation did its part. I can tell you from personal experience that hearing "You're almost there!" while carrying a canoe is a Good Thing.
Why was everyone so nice? I think the main factor was that all of us, i.e. everyone in the Boundary Waters, knew that what we were doing was not easy but that it was really cool to be doing it AND we were all there because we wanted to do it. Additionally, given the parties' differing itineraries someone had at least minimally useful information about where someone else was heading. Everyone wanted everyone else to succeed.
I suspect that's why we felt kind of bad about the first day's race to the island campsite on Meeds Lake. The campsite system, where possession is ten-tenths of the law, imposes a sort of zero-sum framework on an otherwise cooperative (or at least not adversarial) environment. I get that there is really no other way to administer this in the context of a designated wilderness, but it's too bad that a critical component of the experience - shelter - contrasts so strongly with the rest.
To everyone we met as we hauled our gear to and fro: THANK YOU and safe travels.

